Just for Grins: On Silverware

Here follows two unclassified cables showing what really matters during times of crisis.  With this, Real Diplomacy signs off for the summer.  Back in September 2018.

A Journal Interlude from November 28, 1999: Hiking the Itiquira

Yesterday, went for a hike along the Itiquira River a few hours outside the city.

A bunch of us -- led by the motor pool dispatcher, who knew the way to the fazenda (farm) at the trail head because he rocks-climbs waterfalls and who came to us recently as a result of downsizing at Xerox Brasil after many years as a supervisor of technicians and is somewhat over qualified for his present position but hopes to move up -- drove off at 8am and had a jolly old time (accompanied as we were by a Brit).  The trail was probably just five or six miles but it was in a narrow valley in the cerrado (bush) along the river.  Going between ridges and walls of rock covered in tropical green, the trail went up and down and crossed the river at several points.  The river was little more than 10-20 feet wide but was running very high and fast due to this being rainy season.  We waded into sometimes waist-high water that fought us all the way.  But we had only 1 ½ dunkings and got to enjoy the challenge.  (The only way to ford on foot a river running quick is to face upstream.)  Descending with the river, we passed by repeated rapids and a 125-foot falls that was majestic but almost totally hidden.  We stopped at one point to swim, though it was not warm on top of the plateau.  After around two hours, we arrived at the top of Itiquira Fall, a 500-foot drop.  Peering over the edge was a bit scary but it was difficult to see to the bottom since the falling water turns to mist about a third of the way down.  We climbed down along the side of the falls, a very steep slope where we had to be careful not to start an avalanche of rocks for the folks below.

On the way home, we stopped at a very modest restaurant and made the staff’s day with our considerable consumption of food and drink.  The sun came out while we were there so the owner sent somebody onto the roof (of tin) to wet it down with a hose to keep the gringos down under cool and comfortable.

Journal Interludes: October 16 & 23, 1999

October 16:  I had a good week, just three days but filled enough to seem longer.  Met with two ministers on Friday on a case that I insinuated that some on the U.S. side saw as "creeping expropriation."  Got their attention by sharing a press statement we said we were ready to release.  Had a few beers at the Happy Hour on Friday, something I'd never done before.  And waited all day for an agrément that never came.

October 23:  Had a good week.  Secretary of Transport Rodney Slater visited.  Very nice guy.  I met his FAA N1 Gulf Stream at the airport and later went with his whole delegation to a churrascaria for dinner.  Next day we did briefings in the Embassy, a lunch at a lakeside restaurant specializing in Bahian food and then meetings with the government, topped of by an encounter with President Cardoso.  The Embassy handled the visit beautifully and we ended up at the gem and stone museum/shop on the TV tower.  On Friday, we held a Principal Officers conference where our consul generals and consuls came to Brasilia for the day.  In between, I met with representatives of Mattel Toys -- who want help lowering import barriers in Brazil -- and worked more on a nasty case of re-nationalization in which a state government is trying to remove U.S. shareholders of an energy company.

Meanwhile,  the government here quickly granted agrément for a prospective new U.S. ambassador.  There is a 50/50 chance, I’d guess, at his getting approved this year.  I, of course, would rather not have a boss, but can’t say that.  This job is the best I may ever have.  What the heck.

99 Brasilia 03825: Review and Compliance - Arab League Boycott and Related Provisions Affecting Procurement Contracts

From Journal Entry for August 8, 1999: Typical "work" for a Chief of Mission

This morning, we all went to the Flag Changing ceremony at the Praca dos Tres Poderes (Square of the Three Powers). Every month there is an official ceremony in which the national flag – the biggest in Brazil – is lowered and a new one takes its place. The flagpole is a soaring sculpture in itself at one end of Brasilia’s version of the monumental mall. The space is flanked by the Congress, the Supreme Court and Planalto (the President’s offices) -- thus Tres Poderes. I was invited to attend with my family*. We all got dressed and were picked up by the Lincoln at 8:30. We had a bit of shade in the VIP area and were surrounded by more four-star officers than we ever saw. The Church was present too (some cardinal). We were treated to a marching band from the Military High School of Brasilia, which had a live sheep for its mascot.

 

Yesterday we had a newly arrived family over for lunch....  asked the staff to do a Brazilian barbecue. The food went great with the caipirinhas, the company, the sun and the pool. [My wife] – a bit reluctant at first to have our domestics asked to work on Saturday (it is part of their work schedule but we don’t usually utilize it) – enjoyed lunch enough to suggest we do it every weekend. On Friday night, we went to the Bolivian National Day reception while Andy went on a sleep over. This evening, Andy and I will have a guest box at the local soccer stadium to see Gama play Guarani. The workweek is pretty full and we are entering a busy period with lots of visitors coming down. But I like what I’m doing and we all are having a good time.

*Note:  My family joined me in Brasilia for a few weeks during the summer break.

From Journal Entries for July 10 & 11, 1999: Getting settled

July 1O: The transition to Brazil has almost been too easy. The house is great, the weather fine, [wife and son] are here, and I am in charge. Still I wonder what I'm doing here. Why come to a foreign land, why represent the United States, why think my way into other folk's reality, why try to explain it to the folks back home? ...

July 11: It is a little after noon and ... I just came in from a dip in the pool and we are all resting after a morning of tennis at the Ambassador’s residence. Shortly, we will be picked up by my driver and go to a “churrascaria tipo rodizio” for lunch. That’s where they bring around an endless round of barbecued meats and other stuff and you eat until you are “satisfeito.”.... 

I continued to get my hands around the Mission, engaging on several fronts and making – I hope – some headway on resolving our problems with the government over counter-narcotics cooperation. Everyone encouraged me to cut back on meetings, which I could easily do since there were too many. For a while at least, I seem to be popular. Gave my first reception on Tuesday and it went well. With staff and my protocol chief to do all the work, it was pretty easy to put together. We have some high level visitors coming over the next several weeks and we’ll have some more entertaining to do.

99 Brasilia 02540: Cabinet Reform: Malan to Stay, Most Others TBD

A Belizean Interlude: Perhaps How Not to Say Goodbye

Served as DCM in Belize City 1994-96.  The Ambassador was a political appointee from New Hampshire.  The US had various international crime issues with the Belizean government and as my tour was drawing to a close, we thought I might be used to deliver a tough message through an interview with a local newspaper (the Reporter).  The government was not pleased and suggested it would have PNG'd me but I was already leaving.  (Clever American diplomacy in action.)  The pro-government People's Pulse then responded.  On the day I left, while at the airport with my son waiting for the plane, Belizean police approached me and suggested that they could, if they wished, plant drugs on me and use that to arrest me.  What fun.  Here follows the relevant press pieces. 

Sudan: Final Words

The break-up of Sudan, aided and abetted by the United States, can be seen as another example of ill-conceived outside interference in an internal conflict in the name of democracy and human rights. The record for holding together the multi-ethnic states left behind by Western colonialism and former empires, without autocratic and often brutal centralized rule, is slim. This is a hard truth. And once such states are broken, they do not heal themselves. 

The full piece on my final thoughts on the string of Sudan entries may be found on TransConflict: http://www.transconflict.com/2016/05/what-lesson-from-sudan-035/

From My Journal for April 23, 2004: Back From Leave

Went to work today to start digging out of some 300 plus emails (classified and un). But this afternoon, I went to the Embassy picnic for a bit. Completely organized by our local employees. Location,a farm on the Blue Nile. On the way there, my caravan of SUV plus follow-car came up behind a heard of goats completely blocking the dirt road. We all walked slowly for several minutes until the sheep sort of wandered into a field for some grass. I was listening to music and enjoying looking at all the colors and designs sheep come in. Yep, back in Sudan.

The picnic was quite nice. Was handed plates of food and played a game of volleyball. With a cool breeze from the river, it was bearable despite being way over 100. Volley ball on the shores of the Nile. Yep, back in Sudan.

Journal Entries for February 13 & 14, 2004:

February 13:  The house is empty again and I'm fading already.  It was an exciting few days.  Between USAID and State fighting it out and at the same time trying to end two wars, there were moments of interest.  Was fun watching McKinley operating.  He can't stand to see a moment go by without launching a bureaucratic or policy-oriented action of some sort.  Compared to him, I am a watcher and I draw lines that he fudges with ease.  Though to be fair to myself, I have been doing pretty well here with the little info that filters to me from DC.  Armed with the information gleaned from my visitors and their "elephant love-making," I believe we can stay a bit ahead of the home office.  The next two months will tell if the peace process will work out or not.  After that, US domestic politics, the elections and the coming of a new Assistant Secretary from USAID will pull the rug out from under a balanced approach to Sudan.  I alerted my CT guys here to beef up cooperation so we can create some countervailing facts on the ground.

I plan to sleep in tomorrow and then do nothing.  Even closed the Embassy comms so no one has an excuse to work.

February 14:  Meant to do nothing but spent most of the day working on getting government people to understand that my visitors in Darfur did not get arrested and to let them know they will have big political problems with the US if they don't move quickly to stop the violence.  Finally did get to relax with dinner of stuffed peppers from the food stash left by James.  Then went out onto my patio for a martini, which I am hoping will depress my system somewhat.  Running on adrenalin and 5 hours sleep, I need to come down a bit.

Journal Entry for November 28, 2003

Yesterday was Thanksgiving. I missed being in Pittsburgh. But we carried on the traditions here in Khartoum. Had 20 fellow Embassy folks, Americans from all over the US. We all wanted to be somewhere else, with family and friends, but here we were. I said a few words of thanks, for all the loved ones and people back home who give us the reason for being here to serve and for each other. I hugged everyone who came. We all had good food and a good time. Tradition carrying on.

Journal Entry for November 17, 2003

It's getting hard to keep things in perspective. I went from dealing with the serious issues left by the recent threat and meeting with embassy staff (American & local) to discuss this with them to a phone call from the Director General. You can bet on how I looked forward to the Ops Center connecting him to me. Sure enough, not good news. Not a late recognition of my deserving advancement or a word on how well I was handling the current crisis. No, he wanted to tell me that AID Director* thought he had not been treated well enough during his recent visit. Then I went to see the Egyptian ambassador for a scotch and a chat. I enjoy talking with him. Home for dinner and then after dinner, I discover the back lights are out. In the current context, makes me predisposed to paranoia. Then I talk to USAID Washington about a food shipment being held up by a rebellious Agriculture Minister. There is an open feud over this pitting the Minister against the Vice President (and "strong man") and Foreign Minister who told us last month that we could ship despite GOS concerns over GMOs. (Hardliners vs "moderates.") The senior USAID official (who was on the trip) told me we have only days before the food problem will lead to costly diversions. (But "no", he knew of no problem with Andrew.) Then the RSO calls me to tell me the government is already withdrawing police from our facilities including some from my residence. I'm beginning to wonder just what the early signs of coup would be here. I call the desk just to chat. They feel good because the peace delegations had a good meeting in London. (For all I know, they were talking to dead men walking.)

 

What part of this do I take seriously? I don't think I can handle all of it. Think I'll concentrate on police guards.

*Note:  Andrew Natsios was the Director of the US Agency for International Development (USAID), 2001-06.  USAID was a hotbed of USG support for the "Christian" African rebels (SPLM) fighting the Khartoum government in southern Sudan.  The SPLM boosters within the USG did not like the Embassy constantly raising the distracting issue of Darfur.  But Natsios also understood the need to be seen doing something about Darfur by sending food aid while the Sudanese government went ahead with its ethnic cleansing there.  (Natsios reportedly said in a 2003 interview that the total cost of rebuilding Iraq would not cost US taxpayers more than $1.7 billion.)

News Item of 9/16/2003

News Item

KHARTOUM, Sudan, Nov 16, 2003 (AP) -- The U.S. Embassy reopened Sunday after a temporary closure due to terrorism threats against American interests in Sudan.

A brief statement from the embassy said officials were conducting a "constant review" of the security situation to determine if it may be necessary to close the embassy again.

The embassy has been closed since Tuesday following what was called "a credible and specific threat" to U.S. interests in the capital. U.S. and Sudanese officials did not give details on the nature of the threat.

On Friday, the U.S. State Department alerted Americans to terror threats in Sudan and told them to avoid travel to the northeastern Africa country.

Although Sudan remains on the United States list of terror-sponsoring states, Washington has applauded Khartoum's efforts to combat terrorism since the Sept. 11, 2001, attacks and said it would review its sanctions once the government signs a final peace accord with the rebel Sudan People's Liberation Army.

Peace talks are to resume in early December on ending civil war that began in 1983 when rebels from the mainly animist and Christian south took up arms against the predominantly Arab and Muslim north. More than 2 million people have been killed in the war, mainly through war-induced drought.

Sudan hosted al-Qaida leader Osama bin Laden in the 1990s and the region has been cited as a possible haven for terrorists.

News Article by AFP posted on November 11, 2003

News Article by AFP posted on November 11, 2003 at 14:13:00: EST (-5 GMT)*

Sudanese insist foreigners safe in Sudan despite US embassy closure

KHARTOUM, Nov 11 (AFP) -- Sudanese officials insisted Tuesday that their country remained safe for foreigners and they had heard of no threat against Americans here after the US embassy suspended operations for a week.

Foreign Ministry Undersecretary Mutref Siddeiq told Tuesday's edition of the official Al Anbaa daily that his government had no information about a threat against the US embassy in Khartoum.

"There is no threat to the American interests in Sudan," he said.

He added, however, that the security services "are vigilant in protecting foreigners in Sudan."

At least six policemen stood outside the embassy Tuesday in the western part of Khartoum, compared to one or two who are usually posted there, according to an AFP photographer.

The US embassy in Sudan said Monday it "will suspend normal operations as of November 12," noting it would also be closed on Tuesday for the Veterans' Day holiday in the United States.

"This action is the result of a credible and specific threat to US interests in Khartoum," an embassy statement said, without elaborating.

The mission also advised US nationals to be cautious and avoid gatherings of foreigners. A Sudanese source who asked not to be named said around 40 Americans live in Khartoum.

The US embassy is heavily fortified with strong walls and iron bars while a stretch of some 150 metres (yards) of the main Abdel Latif avenue is closed to all but pedestrians.

The fortifications were installed in the 1980s but the road was blocked off to traffic early this year.

In Cairo, visiting US Deputy Secretary of State Richard Armitage said Tuesday that the Sudanese authorities have been helpful.

The problem is "you have to be correct 100 percent of the time but the terrorists only have to be right once," he added.

"So we err perhaps on the side of caution but we made the decision we did. As I understand it from my telegrams this morning we're quite pleased what the Sudanese government has done in response," Armitage said.

In Khartoum, Kamal al-Obeid, the external relations secretary for the ruling National Congress Party (NCP), said meanwhile that "Sudan is a safe country where foreigners enjoy peace and security and are not subjected to any threat."

Obeid, quoted by the official SUNA news agency, called upon the US administration to "reconsider its policies in the region so that the American citizen feels safe."

The Khartoum embassy closure coincided with the shutting of the US mission in Riyadh, only hours before a car bomb attack in the Saudi capital killed 17 people.

The Riyadh attack was blamed on the al-Qaeda terror network.

Sudanese President Omar al-Beshir's government has been trying to shed its Islamic militant image and improve relations with Washington, which since 1993 has maintained Khartoum on a list of states alleged to support terrorism.

But there is deep hostility in Khartoum and other Arab capitals towards the US occupation of Iraq and Washington's support for Israel in the conflict with the Palestinians.

*Note:  The Embassy released the notice that follows after the senior leadership considered information suggesting there was a pending bomb threat to US facilities.  We also discovered that an outside sewer might allow underground access to our building.

 

Press Release

The United States Embassy in Khartoum will suspend normal operations as of November 12. (The Embassy will be closed on November 11 for the national holiday of Veterans Day.) This action is the result of a credible and specific threat to US interests in Khartoum. We urge all US citizens in Sudan to exercise extra caution and to avoid gatherings of foreigners that may attract outside attention. The Embassy hopes to be able to resume normal operations next week.

The United States Embassy in Khartoum also wishes to express its appreciation for the strong support provided by the Sudanese authorities in confronting the present threat.