Wednesday, January 21, 2015

A Cuban Interlude

I've been to Cuba twice.  In 1983 for 12 days traveling from one side of the island to the other.  (Notes from that next time.)  In 1991, went back as part of the US delegation for the last session of the Joint Commission on Cuban troop withdrawal (CTW) from Angola.  This was an effort led by the Africa Bureau (AF) and Assistant Secretaries Crocker and Cohen to assist Angola, Cuba and South Africa to reach agreement on Cuban and South African troops leaving Angola and South African acquiescence to Namibian independence.  In 1983, as a young State Department intelligence analyst (with INR), I hoped for one of those late night calls to meet Fidel Castro.  Didn't happen.  In 1991, my encounter did place during the reception President Castro gave to the delegations in his palace (the former Justice Ministry).  Attending was perhaps one of the oddest groups to come together during the Cold War:  Cubans, "Marxist" Angolans, Soviets, South Africans and Americans. The following is from my personal journal:

Traveled to Cuba 11/21-22/91 for the last meeting of the Joint Commission (on Cuban Troop Withdrawal).  It was a good way, full of poetic irony, for me to get pointed back toward ARA again.  Angola takes me back through Cuba.  Met Fidel Castro at a reception he gave for the delegations.  He appeared a bit pale and listless (and impatient) during the overly long signing ceremony, but was sharp enough later on.  Shook his hand in the receiving line, mumbling about Union City.  Later on, he approached and monologued at us for some 30 minutes.  He used me and the women director of CCA as targets to deliver a message.  I nodded understanding while trying to sort out his Spanish from the English translation.  He went from discussing a Mexican novel to talking about land policy, sugar and the price of oil.  He explained that the US, Mexican, Japanese and Soviet experiences showed that agriculture has to be large scale to be efficient.  Small-scale farming can succeed only if heavily subsidized.  Cuba exports four calories for every one the Cubans themselves consume.  He justified Cuban sugar growing in this indirect manner.  And if the price of sugar compared to oil has reversed over the last 30 years, to Cuba’s detriment, Castro seemed to be suggesting that this wasn’t his fault.  He was acting rationally.  I wanted to ask about incentive.  But Castro’s clear assumption is that social man can be a reality.  Social man is rational man.  In this conception, there is thus a counterpart to the rational man of economics.  But rational in this case does not signify a simple individual maximizer (an id-rational person) but a society maximizer (a superego-rational person).  This is at least a more noble illusion than the reagan/bush kind.  From my two visits, it seems Cuba speaks of conscious intent too -- Castro’s intent -- and not just the accident of an invisible hand or some trickle down.  Castro noted to CCA that the US seems to be just waiting for Cuba to fail.  We could have a better policy.
The Latin America Bureau at State (ARA) was none too pleased at having any Americans doing business with Cuba.  They had kept an eye on us AF types and sent minders when the team went to Havana.  When Fidel began his monologue, he directed it at me, even repreatedly poking me in the stomach.  His message was directed at the CCA (Cuban Affairs) director but turned to her only at the end to deliver his policy message against sanctions.

Below is the "class picture" of the assembled delegations with Fidel taken after after the reception on the stairs of the Justice Ministry.  I'm visible as a peering, balding head in the third row behind Fidel's left shoulder.


Thursday, January 15, 2015

03 Khartoum 1045






Note:  "ADCM" is the acting deputy chief of mission.  Also, as you can see, the entire comment was redacted by the State Department.

Monday, January 12, 2015

03 Khartoum 1042 *






* Note:  This cable actually should have been posted previous to the last as it came first and provides background to this media case.

Thursday, December 11, 2014

Journal Entry for December 2, 2003

Sitting here at 8am on December 2 with a nice breeze waifing in Khartoum air. The scent is a bit musky but not unpleasant and it is cool. Opened the windows in the middle of the night and turned the AC off. Yahoo says the temp will range from 65 to 89 today and it'll get into the high 50's for lows this week. Beats Belize by miles. Woke up to birds singing and the occasional cry of a distant hawk.



Went to Nyala, capital of Southern Darfur yesterday. Took 3 1/2 hours of flying each way. Went with UK and EU Ambassadors to highlight our concern over the conflict there. The Wali (governor), a tough military man (and possible war criminal) had stopped the UK ambassador and me from making previous tries to get there. He was absent yesterday.



We met with state government officials, NGOs and then with a group of tribal leaders. The Wali had tried to stop us from meeting them but we insisted. The leaders of the two main Darfur opponents -- Arab nomad tribes and the Fur tribe (African farmers) -- both gave us their sides. We encouraged them to make peace. (The Arab nomads have been trying to drive the African farmers from their land. Both are Moslem.)



Some of our group went to a camp of people displaced by the war. They are in bad shape. Darfur from the air looks absolutely barren and it we'd call it desert.* But Greater Darfur has 6 million people and as the Sahara spreads south, they have less good space and thus fight for it. I find it hard when I am in such a place to grasp how the people who live there and the people who live in the First World, North America or Europe, could possibly be on the same planet. The distance between realities is so great.







*2014 Note:  Darfur does look very arid to an outsider.  But it gets just enough rain when the Inter-tropical Convergence Zone moves north.  The Jebel Marra region sticks up into the clouds and can get enough rain for agriculture and pasture.  It's thus worth having.

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Journal Entry for November 28, 2003


Yesterday was Thanksgiving. I missed being in Pittsburgh. But we carried on the traditions here in Khartoum. Had 20 fellow Embassy folks, Americans from all over the US. We all wanted to be somewhere else, with family and friends, but here we were. I said a few words of thanks, for all the loved ones and people back home who give us the reason for being here to serve and for each other. I hugged everyone who came. We all had good food and a good time. Tradition carrying on.